From Jane Fonda’s iconic workout leggings (combined with leg warmers) through to Sienna Miller and her many layered boho looks, there’s been no shortage of moments during the past century where stretchy pants have played an integral role in women’s wardrobes. However, whether at the gym or in the office, leggings continue to be a contentious style topic.

There’s no denying this divisive jersey trouser is staging something of a high-fashion comeback now—from Valentino to Versace, Gigi Hadid to Kim Kardashian, they are being worn on a regular, completely legitimate basis. Saggy, slobby and sometimes scarily see-through, leggings are fashion’s unlikeliest heroes. Some love them—and Some loathe them—and are most likely trying to not get their head around the etiquette of wearing jeggings or leggings outside. On the other hand, a basic black ankle length version can quickly become your best friend for life.